36 HOURS IN BRUGES

The city of cobbles, canals and chocolate shops - also known as the Venice of the North – is a delight to visit with children. Jo Gardner shows us how to get the most out of the city in 36 hours

Touching down

Let the train take the strain on the Eurostar from Ebbsfleet or London St Pancras to Brussels Midi (around two hours). From here, it’s a quick hop to Bruges. Alternatively, fly to Brussels and complete the journey by rail, changing at Brussels Nord station. British Airways, BMI, Brussels Airlines and Flybe all fly direct to Brussels from a variety of airports.

Day 1 - morning
Start the day with breakfast in your hotel or guesthouse – the Belgian’s know how to put on a good spread with a selection of yoghurts, homemade breads, cheeses, meats, eggs to order and, if you luck out waffles using a machine that makes them in front of your eyes (hours of fun for children).  

It’s hard to get lost in a city this small but getting lost is also half the fun. Spend a good few hours wandering the historic medieval streets and taking it all in. Bruges is relatively car-free so you can walk at will (although watch out for those bikes) and window shop.

All streets will eventually lead you to Bruges Markt, the main square, where most of the tourist attractions sit. Climb the 366 steps of The Belfry Tower to get a stunning view of the city - on the way up, catch your breath at the treasury where you’ll see Bruges’ celebrated carillon of 47 bells. If this is going to be too much with a pram/small child, find a bench on the square and simply stare at this fascinating building.

Back down, grab a takeaway coffee at The Gulliver Tree, a little coffee house just off the main square on Cordoeaniersstraat, and return to the main square to drink it – sit on a bench and plot your next move. They sell baby chocs or hot milk for children.

A rickshaw is a great way to see parts of the city you wouldn’t usually get to – and it gives little feet a well-earned rest. Guides speak good English and allow you to get off and take photographs. Our guide effortlessly cycled us along several canals, over tiny bridges and to the Lake of Love, which is really worth stopping to get a shot of, before returning me back to Markt.

Afternoon

For lunch on the go, nothing beats the little carts dotted around the city selling waffles, chips and homemade lemonade. Our triple cook chips doused in mayonnaise were hot and delicious, and cheap as, erm, chips.

Evening

Bruges is stuffed with quirky B&Bs but, for one reason or another (too close to the canal; no high chairs in the restaurant, etc), they aren’t always suitable for children. If your visit coincides with the summer, choose a larger hotel with an outdoor pool – we plumped for the centrally-located Novotel and took regular breaks from sightseeing with sunny swims and ice-creams (her)/ beer (me).

We begin our evening with a drink at a canal side bar and watch the boats come in and out. If the queues aren’t too long, hop on a canal boat tour, beautiful at night as the entire stretch of water lights up.

Evening meals really depend on the weather – if it’s warm, don’t miss the opportunity to sit outside at a bistro, either in a pretty square or canal-side. If it’s cold, there are plenty of cosy options to choose from.

As it’s a pleasant evening, we brave the elements and sit outside at Brasserie Uilenspiegal which has uninterrupted views of the canal and an incredible menu of muscles, stews, croques, salads and waffles. My steaming bowl of muscles cooked in Belgian beer was just what the doctor ordered; my daughter selects a Croque Madam and isn’t disappointed.

If you aren’t too full or tired from a day of walking, a visit to the modern concert hall to watch a classical musical performance might well be music to your ears (pictured below).

Day 2 - morning

Every time you turn a corner in this city, you come face-to-face with another stunning piece of architecture – Bruges Cathedral is no exception. Sitting demurely off the main square since 1834, a walk around the inside, with its incredible stained glass windows and ornate flourishes, is a really good way to spend a morning. Light a candle and think of a loved one, or make a wish.

Good deed done, it’s time to shop. Put your back to the cathedral and cross the road into Bruges’ main shopping street, where you’ll find Mango, H&M, an Apple store and many more well-known names. For traffic-free shopping, head back down the lanes and just mooch – you’ll find shops selling entire walls of beer, souvenirs, quirky home wares and clothes as well as, of course, chocolate.

Afternoon

No trip to Bruges is complete without pressing your nose up to the window of some of the prettiest chocolate shops (and heading inside). Keep your tongue in your mouth as you buy presents to take home (or just select a few pieces to nibble on) on nearby Katelijnestraat. Here, you’ll find Pralinique de Bruges at no. 25, Verheecke at no. 22 and Suckerbuyc at no. 5, the city’s oldest chocolate shop.

If all this chocolate is making you hungry, and you’re after something sweet, drop into Chez Albert on the same street and order a waffle to go. This is a favourite spot among locals who eat theirs with strawberries and cream, chocolate sauce and ice-cream or plain with a drop of syrup. Ask them to put a little Belgian flag in it and take a photo for Instagram – you won’t be the first (or the last).  

Evening

Beer is king in Bruges too, and a brewery tour is a good way to learn how the dark stuff is made – and get the evening off to a good start with some tastings. Ask the hotel to book you a babysitter and head to the Half Moon Brewery which has been run by the Maes family for centuries.

Don’t move a muscle… the Half Moon serves dinner too, in a light and airy restaurant with about 20 moose heads of different sizes on the far wall. Go for the a la carte menu and tuck into three courses for Euro 30. Choosing the beer soup with ham and cheese to start was something of a risk but well worth it. End the evening, and indeed your tour of Bruges, like the start – with another waffle. Just like the city itself, they are warm and made with love.